High-grade lure designs, priced by size. Configure it, buy the files, print it tonight.
Prints on
+ any FDM printer →
Surface lures — no dive class to promise. Same construction rules as every lure we sell: stainless through-wire and epoxy sealing are required steps. Pencil tail ballast is tungsten, steel or brass — never lead.
This is a DIY product. You print, assemble and seal it yourself — the guides walk you through every step.
Every file is vendor-neutral: STL plus a 3MF with the parts already laid out print-ready — flat on the plate, no supports. Opens in any slicer: Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura, OrcaSlicer. We deliberately lock ourselves into no ecosystem.
Any FDM printer with a 220 × 220 mm bed or larger. Every part fits the Creality Ender 3 — our deliberate size limit. The print guide in every package has dialed-in sections for Bambu Lab A1/P1S/X1C, Prusa MK4 and Creality Ender 3.
Any common one: Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura or OrcaSlicer. You get vendor-neutral STL files plus a generic 3MF — open, pick your printer, slice.
PETG for everything. Lures also print in PLA (more brittle in water — seal them just as carefully). Soft-bait molds require PETG: PLA deforms at plastisol pouring temperature.
No. All parts are oriented to print without supports — the orientation is already set in the 3MF.
Bambu Lab, Prusa, Creality and Ender are trademarks of their respective owners, named here to describe compatibility only. Fishing3D is not affiliated with or endorsed by them.
Every lure file we sell says the same thing: stainless through-wire and epoxy sealing are required steps, not tips. These are the tools that make them easy — print once, use them for every lure you ever build.
No load ratings — these hold light lures, nothing more. The wheel needs a 5–6 rpm motor, the jig needs steel pins: not included, named exactly in each parts list.
Two-part molds for pouring your own soft plastics — print the plate twice, clamp, pour. Printed molds are good for dozens of pours, not industrial tooling. The pour guide with required safety steps is part of every package.
Plastisol is poured at ~170 °C — the included guide covers the required safety steps. PETG required for mold plates.
Rest heads for standard 3/8″ BSF banksticks — print them, screw them on, fish. Solid, conservative prints; the thread is in the file.
No load ratings — a printed part is as strong as your print. Made to rest a fishing rod, not to secure anything.
Same printed 3/8″ BSF thread — raise your rest, split one stick into two, or put a camera where your rod is.
The camera adapter carries a stainless 1/4″-20 bolt (not included) — a printed part never holds your camera alone: use a leash. No load ratings, not a securing device.
Rod tube mounts for 1″ gear tracks and round rails — printed holder plus stainless hardware you add yourself.
No load ratings — strength depends on your print and hardware. Always run a rod leash. Not a securing device.
Wall storage for your rods — printed brackets with rounded cradles, for the garage, basement or tackle room. You add screws and anchors to match your wall.
No load ratings — a printed bracket is as strong as your print and your wall anchors. Mounting into studs or proper anchors is a required step; screws and anchors not included.
What we learned building printable fishing gear — materials, required steps, molds, printers. No fluff, no promises we can't keep.
3D Printed Fishing Lures: What Actually Works3D printed fishing lures explained: what a printable wobbler needs, why through-wire and epoxy sealing are required, and what dive depth really means.
How to Seal 3D Printed Fishing Lures (Epoxy Guide)How to seal 3D printed fishing lures with epoxy: why FDM prints need sealing, the two-coat technique, cure times, and mistakes that cause waterlogging.
3D Printed Soft Bait Molds: Pouring Your Own Soft Plastics3D printed soft bait molds explained: how two-part PETG molds work, plastisol pouring basics, required safety steps, and an honest look at mold lifespan.